Help with Model 19 bracing

[johnsonad]

Hello,

I'm planning some work on the 19's and thought about increasing the bracing of the cabs while the woofers and horns are removed. I don't want to open the cabs up but work the bracing material through the holes. I could use some help in this area. What materials should be used and where should I put it for best results? Also, is there a good way to look for air leaks or is it better to run a bead of something and seal everthing while I'm in there?

Thanks in advance!

Aaron

[Skip Pack]

Using something like wooden curtain rod (1"-1 1/4" dowel) is easy. If it's a tiny bit
long so you push the cab walls out when you 'slide' it square across the dimension
you are spanning, it loads the sides nicely. You put it in place into two puddles of
glue, and wipe up once it's in place.

This isn't nearly as good as a full rectangular panel with big holes that braces
in two dimensions, but it's an easy retrofit and it works. I have done it several
times through the woofer cutout for front-to-back and side-to-side bracing.

Skip

[SOOTSHE]

Funny, I've been thinking about doing the same thing with mine.

You'll find that once you get the drivers out there's a fair bit of room to work in.

I had all the drivers out when I first got mine & I put a bead of clear silicone around all the joins. Don't know if it made any difference, but at least I know that now there aren't any leaks. Also put a new sealing gasket around the horn before I installed it. Picked up some Raven door & window seal that was perfect for the job.

I was thinking of putting some diagonal bracing (2 x 1) just glued & screwed across the back panel & the 2 sides. I suppose a front to back dowel wouldn't hurt either.

While you have everything apart you should consider replacing the caps in the crossover & doing the ground by pass.

Cheers,
John

[jnorv]

I have used Threaded leveling feet, Tee nuts and 1/2 conduit to make adjustable rods to brace the interior of cabinets. Cut the conduit to the required length, put a Tee nut with a leveling foot into each end. Insert between panels and then unscrew the leveling foot to get the desired force. See McMaster-Carr (McMaster-Carr), leveling feet for picture. If you have the ability to drill holes in the ends of wooden dowels they could be substituted for the conduit.

Jim N

[johnsonad]

Thanks guys! Great suggestions!

The crossovers will be worked on. Crossover work seems to be a touchy subject around here . I'm leaving the stock stuff in place and am building external units with North Creek inductors, new resistors, caps and using 12awg Mogami speaker wire through out (have a stash of it). Plan to hard wire them from speaker to amp.

Picked up some Dynamat Extreme to damp (fixed) the horns also.

[bowtie427ss]

Picked up some Dynamat Extreme to dampen the horns also.

Don't "dampen" them, "damp" them. You'll like a non-resonant horn a lot better than a wet one, i promise.

[johnsonad]

Thanks, screwed that one up before. Not used too often in English or at least by me

[Mustang Marvin]

I used 1 X 4 oak flooring boards for the bracing in my A7's. The flooring is really strong and it's readily available. Install it on edge.